The area was part of the Austrian Empire for centuries before becoming part of Italy after World War I. After the war, Mussolini’s Fascist government attempted to “Italianize” the region by encouraging Italian migration and suppressing the German language. Those efforts largely failed, and the people of South Tyrol still proudly maintain their German heritage and language today. The result is a fascinating blend of cultures where espresso bars and aperitivo traditions coexist alongside Alpine customs, German dialects, and Austrian-style mountain cuisine.
The bar in our hotel offered a couple of locally made, German-style beers, and naturally I was eager to try them. On the first evening, I joined some fellow travelers to enjoy pours of Felsenkeller Bier from Birra Forst. Served in a tall chalice, the cloudy, unfiltered, and unpasteurized beer delivered notes of sweet bread, yeast, and a touch of banana. It was remarkably refreshing and easy to sip.
On another late evening, after a day spent hiking wooded trails and wandering the city streets, I settled into the hotel’s outdoor garden to enjoy another local beer — this time paired with a cigar. I selected the V.I.P. Pils, also from Birra Forst. The crisp pilsner, brewed in the German tradition with a notably dry finish and refined bitterness, proved especially refreshing in the cool Alpine evening air. I paired it with a Las Calaveras Edicion Limitada 2025 LC52 that I had packed from home.
I’ve long enjoyed the annual Las Calaveras releases from Crowned Heads. The 2025 version features a mid-priming Mexican San Andrés wrapper that shows a lighter appearance than the darker maduro tones usually associated with San Andrés tobacco. Beneath that wrapper are Nicaraguan binder and fillers. The cigar treated the palate to notes of coffee and espresso, touches of cocoa, and mild pepper. Underlying it all was a gentle sweetness that softened the richer flavors.
Ideally, the cigar might have paired even better with a darker ale, perhaps a German Dunkel or Bock. However, that wasn’t an option at the time, and I found the combination thoroughly satisfying nonetheless. The crisp bitterness and clean, dry finish of the V.I.P. Pils highlighted the cigar’s cocoa and espresso notes without adding competing sweetness. The cool evening air and tranquil garden setting only enhanced the relaxing atmosphere.
The region’s German influence is readily apparent in the food as well. During a stroll through the market area of Bolzano, we stopped at a vendor’s cart to enjoy some Weißwurst. The sausages were served on paper with a generous dollop of spicy mustard and a hard roll — simple fare, but immensely satisfying.
One evening, we enjoyed dinner at Batzen Häusl, a local brewery and restaurant — not exactly the experience we had expected to find in Italy. I ordered a Batzen Bräu Bock alongside a South Tyrolean bratwurst platter. The beer was rich with dark caramel malt flavors and a mild sweetness.
The sausages were equally delicious, served with roasted potatoes and sauerkraut. I especially enjoyed the creamy sauerkraut, which struck a pleasing balance between sweet and sour flavors.
The food, the beer, the architecture, and the dramatic scenery of the Dolomites towering above the town — not to mention the ever-present German dialect — often made it easy to forget we were in Italy at all. Yet that unique blending of Italian and Germanic cultures is precisely what makes Bolzano and South Tyrol such a memorable destination. It’s a place where Alpine traditions and Italian hospitality coexist seamlessly, creating an atmosphere unlike anywhere else we visited during the trip. For this beer enthusiast, it was like two vacations in one.
Cheers!